Podcast
Newsletter
We value your information and will not disclose it without your consent.
Privacy Statement
Gallery Images
Quick Links
United Divers is our favourite dive shop
ILB Computing hosts Bluebeyond.com.au
Search BlueBeyond
Gear Configuration for the Recreational Deep Diver
Previous: Gear Configuration for the Recreational Diver
If you've read the story so far about the configuration for the recreational diver, you'll be starting to get an understanding that the gear you wear depends largely on the environment you're diving in. Much of the gear configuration for the Recreational Deep Diver (ie. 18m to 40m with no-decompression stops) builds upon that for the Recreational Diver. So the following discussion will focus on the differences, not on those items that are the same.
Gas Supply
In my opinion, air is a great surface mix, but is not the best choice for most diving applications, especially as you extend beyond 18m or so. Bottom times on air are limited, so I strongly prefer Enriched Air (Nitrox) as my breathing gas in the 18m to 40m range. With enriched air, we have a better choice. Make
it.
A single high capacity (100cu. ft) tank, with a suitable reserve supply should be appropriate in all no-deco diving situations to 40m. Regulators should ideally be high performance balanced regulators, although some unbalanced models do have performances equally balanced models, such as the Oceanic Alpha Sport.
The reserve gas supply should be stage tank slung under your left arm. Some divers mount this to the main cylinder, but I am not an advocate of this setup, as I want to be able to access and control the valve of a stage tank. As a stage tank (as opposed to a deco tank), the contents should be breathable at the bottom depths of your dive.
Best location is under the left arm, with the regulator charged and turned off until required. The hose of the second stage should be stowed inside bungee cord, to keep it streamlined. When required, pull the reg free and turn on. This takes a couple of seconds, but prevents breathing the wrong gas.
If you're going to dive with a richer mix in your pony than your main cylinder, I would suggest at most a EANx40 (unless you're qualified as an Advanced Nitrox diver or similar). Be sure that the contents of your reserve gas supply are breathable at the depths you'll be diving to.
You're further from the surface when diving in the deeper range of recreational diving, so it is prudent to have a dive buddy with whom you have mutually agreed objectives for your dive, and for you to stay together. Dive as a team, unless you are trained and/or experienced with proper solo diving techniques.
If your gas consumption is high, plan to use a larger tank, at least at 100cu. ft, and maybe a 120cu. ft is ideal.
Buoyancy Control Devices
Since this dive is probably using a single back mounted cylinder and maybe a slung stage tank, most normal BCs will work just fine. Things like tough construction are very
important, and solid, metal, d-rings on which to sling your pony cylinder are important.
Rear inflation is a nice feature and at this level becomes increasingly important as it optimises weight distribution when slinging an additional cylinder, and neither tank impinges on the inflation cell of the BCD.
At this level, integrated weights are wonderful - one less buckle, one less thing to get snagged up in.
As stated in the previous article, my preference is for a Hogarthian style backplate and wing BCD. Its very simple, modular and easy to fit and use.
Regulators, Gauges and Hoses
You must have a good quality, high performance (ideally a balanced model) well
maintained first and second stage. To avoid confusion with the regulator on the stage/deco bottle, you should really consider breathing from the reg you're going to give away if another diver is out-of-gas (OOG), and having the backup on a necklace. The reg for the slung stage tank should be kept tight with the stage tank, so you avoid mixing them up. This is especially critical if the stage tank contains a gas supply that has a maximum depth (MOD) shallower than the depth you're diving to.
Have the appropriate hose for your SPG and inflator. This should be straight forward. The reg you plan to give away in an out of air situation should be on a longer hose. At this level, you might want to consider the use of a longer host, such as a 1.5-2m hose. This will be mandatory if you venture into tech diving, and is a good choice for other diving. The long hose is by no means mandatory for non-technical recreational diving, and a standard length occy hose will suffice.
Your primary reg (the one you breathe off) should be on the longer hose, as this is the one I suggest you give away in an OOG situation.
Your pony cylinder should have its second stage on a standard length occy hose.
If you work to the above, you would be well setup and streamlined, carrying no more than 4 hoses, maybe. From a personal perspective that it is a great feeling diving with only two hoses, and still sacrificing safety or redundancy.
Exposure Protection
As you go deeper, chances are that there will be a difference between the water
temperature at depth and that at the surface. I've had up to an 8 degree celsius
difference. Although this is rare, you should account for the likely temperature at
depth. Theres nothing more annoying than an ice cream head ache at depth.
Dress warm, and use steel cylinders to offset bouyancy gains.
Valves
DIN valves are recommended at this level, and will certainly be all but mandatory if you move onto technical diving.
Cutting Devices
Have two, as you cant really affort to be in a situation at depth with limited
no-deco time trying deploy a knife on your lower body if your entanglement situation makes
it difficult to reach. At least one should be on the upper body, as discused in the
previous discussion.
Other Bits n' Pieces
Use a compass on all deep dives for navigation, especially
when visibility is good. Wrist mounted if using a
wrist mounted computer, gauge mounted otherwise.
Lights are needed just to show true colours at depth. If diving in daylight hours, one should be sufficient. Have it clipped to your BCD and stowed with a low profile, but easily deployable.An extension cord on which to hold it if unclipped is an excellent idea to prevent loss if dropped. A two part (battery pack and seperate light head) light is great due to longer burn times, more negative bouyancy. The battery pack should be stored on the right hip or on the right side of the main tank, in as low a profile as possible.
Slates for communicating and recording of dive plan information are a great idea. Wet note style books are a fantastic option. The Aqua Pack styles with large size pencil are good too.